Storing a classic car at home sounds simple: park it in the garage and throw a cover over it. In practice, months of stillness can damage a classic faster than regular driving. Tires flat-spot, batteries die, fuel goes stale, moisture invites rust, and seals dry out. Whether you store a classic for winter or for years, a proper storage routine protects both the car and its value. Here is how to do it right.

Start with a thorough clean, inside and out, because dirt and bird droppings etch paint over time and food crumbs attract pests. Change the engine oil before storage, since used oil contains contaminants that corrode internal parts while sitting. Fill the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer, which prevents the fuel from degrading and protects the tank from condensation. Check coolant, brake fluid, and tire pressures, and inflate tires slightly above normal pressure to reduce flat-spotting. If you can, place the car on axle stands to take the weight off the tires entirely, though this is optional for short storage periods.

The storage space matters as much as the preparation. A dry, ventilated garage is ideal; a damp or unheated space invites rust and mold. Use a dehumidifier if your garage is humid, and keep the car away from exterior walls where condensation forms. A breathable car cover is essential: it keeps dust off while allowing moisture to escape, unlike plastic sheeting, which traps dampness against the paint. Place pest deterrents around the car, and block the exhaust pipe and air intake with steel wool or purpose-made plugs to stop rodents nesting, remembering to remove them before starting the car again.

Disconnect the battery or, better, connect it to a trickle charger or battery maintainer, which keeps it charged without overcharging. If you disconnect it, remember that some classic cars lose radio codes or clock settings. Check the car monthly: look for leaks, pest signs, and tire pressure, and roll the car slightly if it is not on stands, to change the tires' contact patch. Do not start the engine for a few minutes every week, as some owners do, because a cold start without a proper drive creates condensation in the exhaust and engine that does more harm than good. If you do start it, drive it properly until fully warm, or do not start it at all.

When storage ends, reverse the process carefully. Remove covers and plugs, reconnect the battery, and check all fluid levels, tire pressures, and brakes before driving. Inspect belts and hoses for cracks that may have developed, and check for any pest damage to wiring. Take a gentle first drive to warm everything up and listen for anything unusual before pushing the car. A proper storage routine takes an afternoon to set up and saves thousands in repairs, and it is one of the simplest ways to protect a classic car's value. The cars that survive decades in the best condition are rarely the ones driven hardest; they are the ones stored with care.

Do not forget insurance and paperwork while a classic is stored. Tell your insurer the car is in storage, since some policies offer reduced rates for laid-up vehicles, but make sure fire, theft, and damage cover remain in place. Keep the car's documents, service history, and photos of its condition in a safe place, and photograph the car from all angles before covering it, so any storage damage is easy to prove. If the car is valuable, consider a storage-specific policy that covers its agreed value rather than market value. Good storage protects the car physically; good paperwork protects its value if anything goes wrong.